It sounds like you just found the real issue, can anyone else back this up before I try to get my hands on a crank trigger wheel? Tach is actually moving on cranking (raises up maybe 1/4 inch) Our car has stock computer I believe, def not a standalone. Am told motor was out of my uncles friends race car, likely running on a standalone or something. I bet your tach isnt moving while cranking either. With a 36 tooth crank wheel on a factory ECU(again, IF you are on a factory ecu) then it never gets cranking signal. The injectors wont fire until they know the engine is turning. You are getting no fuel from the injectors because the ECU isnt getting an RPM signal. IF you are on stock ECU swap the 4 tooth crank wheel from the blown motor onto this one and I BET this bitch starts. Will NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER EVER EVER run on a stock ECU. The picture of your crank sensor shows a 36 tooth crank wheel. I am new to Miata's but have built many Japanese and Euro cars. I can take pictures of anything that would be helpful. I feel like I've checked all the fuses under the hood, seem good.Īny thoughts? Am around all day today, ready to try anything and report back I even tried running with the FP jumped via the diagnostic connector and no change. Am trying to avoid pulling the intake manifold off if I can.Īnyone have any idea what would cause injectors not to fire, other than an issue at injectors? Not sure that's the issue, but I don't smell gas in exhaust or anything. ![]() I haven't verified that the injectors are firing, but feel like I would have more of a gas smell if they were. Today am going to go buy a compression tester, and verify spark on the other 3 cylinders. Sprayed starter fluid on closed throttle plate, tried cranking, no difference Found broken green with black stripe wire at TPS (think its the ECU signal wire?), car is throwing P0123 code too.ĥ. Adjusted the crank position senor to ~1mm clearance from crank wheel, using a credit cardĤ. Spark on 1 cylinder, have 1/4 on 1 coil, 2/3 on anotherģ. Now that I have it cranking, I cant get it to start.ġ. I figured that out with the help of this forum (start solenoid wire and oil pressure wire were switched) My Uncle swapped a new used long block in, but we couldn't get it to crank. My only complaint about this engine compression tester is that it does not come with a case to store it in.Hey all, I inherited the responsibility of trying to get this track car Miata running for a lapping day this Sunday. I'm gonna' make two recommendations to you:ġ) Which one to buy: The engine compression tester that I have always used is the Actron CP7827 Compression Tester Kit. There are lot of engine compression testers to choose from and many places to buy them. ![]() ![]() To see an example of this tool, check out this article: How To Use A Spark Plug Wire Puller And Where To Buy One (at: ). Using a spark plug wire puller will help you avoid damaging the spark plug wires when disconnecting them from the spark plugs. ![]() TIP 2: To disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs, use a spark plug wire puller. TIP 1: Let the engine cool down completely before removing the spark plugs.Īttempting to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine can damage the threads in the spark plug holes. Heavy exhaust smell coming out of the tailpipe when the engine is running.Misfire felt when the engine is idling but goes away when engine is accelerated.Misfire felt only when accelerating the vehicle.Rough idle condition that does not set a misfire trouble code.If the engine is misfiring, due to a compression problem and your 5.2L or 5.9L Dodge vehicle is OBD II equipped, you'll see one or more of the following trouble codes: To be a bit more specific, the engine still starts and runs, but runs with a misfire. Or the engine compression problem causes a misfire condition. Either the compression problem causes the engine to not start. For the most part, engine compression problems cause one of two problems.
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